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The Suffering
The Suffering is a psychological horror video game, developed mainly by Surreal Software and published by Midway Games, released in 2004 for the Xbox, PlayStation 2 and Microsoft Windows. The game featured monster designs by Stan Winston.
Une méthode extrêmement simple pour pouvoir déjà jouer à Pokemon GO avant tout le monde avec un smartphone Android ! Vous n’avez plus qu’à vous lancer dans cette grande aventure qu’est Pokemon GO !
🐦 Hey CD Projekt Red, I think you shipped the wrong config on PC. Here's a guide that shows you how to "unlock" Cyberpunk for possibly massive performance improvements.
Update regarding the 1.05 patchnotes saying this file appearantly does nothing:
Hey all, I had no intention to jebait anybody in any way. I even asked two friends to try this fix before posting it, because it seemed unreal to me a file like this could change ANYTHING. After they confirmed this, I went to post it on reddit and people's responses were huge. I expected this to ONLY maybe help in niche-cases. Only after hundreds of people allegedly confirming that it made noticable diffferences, stability being the most common, reflecting purposefully increased memory pools, I started to collect data and tried to draw a better picture since some characteristics seemed very distinct (for example new Ryzens seeming to be totally unaffected). Maybe I got hit with placebo, but how the hell is it possible thousands of people appearantly did too? This bugs me quite a bit. If I really spread misinformation, I am sincerely apologizing. Obviously it's hard to argue with patchnotes most likely backed by developers or a member of QA, but for me my personal changes were far beyond any deviation that would fall in within placebo limits. (Yes, I am very aware that a game restart can fix a common memory leak issue or can get the game the chance to reorder itself, therefore giving you a few perceived temporary extra fps gains) I am still positive my game ran way more stable (even on higher settings and better resolution) and it recovered a lot better from fps drops. A prominent point were definite improvements in load times. I am not trying to pull something out of thin air for the sake of defending myself, I am being honest. To the people calling me out for allegedly farming awards or having ill intentions: If there is any way I can refund the awards, for example via staff, I will do so asap. If I can refund Platinum / Gold 1:1 I will immediately do that if I am asked for a refund. I have zero interest in keeping any undeserved rewards. The one person who actually has donated me 4.69$ via PayPal has already been promptly refunded after reading the 1.05 patchnotes. https://i.imgur.com/DY6q0LR.png I only had good intentions, sharing around what I found to get back feedback on, waiting for people to either tell me this is only in my head and that I am a muppet or responses confirming my assumptions. And I got a lot more from the later. I would appreciate it if a CDPR dev can reach out to me personally so I have first hand confirmation, but It's definitely hard to argue with an official set of patchnotes claiming this file does nothing. Again, sincere apologies if I indeed sold you the biggest snake oil barrel in 2020 on accident. It's just hard to grasp for me atm that this thread has tons of posts backing up my assumptions while an official statement states the complete opposite. >> I have created an updated all-in-one video guide, scroll to 'What we've learned' for it.
Pre-Story 🐒
Hi, I played Cyberpunk for 14 hours now and was quite bummed from the start. I have the following rig:
CPU: i7 4790K @ 4.4GHz
GPU: EVGA 1080Ti
RAM: 32GB DDR3
Game on SSD, Windows on a seperate SSD
My rig is normally a monster trusty chap when it comes to performance, I can play the most recent titles on 1440p high on at LEAST 60 fps. I was shocked that I was only averaging 30 - 50fps (lowest settings possible,1080p, 70fov, no extra jazz) at best depending on the amount of objects I was looking at. For someone that is used to play at 1440p @ 144hz, this was heart-wrenchingly bad performance and half an agony to play. So I took a look at CyberPunk in Process Lasso and noticed that both my CPU and GPU always lounge around at 40 - 60% and that my GPU consumed a humble 100 Watts. Something felt horribly off. It makes ZERO sense that my cpu & gpu barely do anything but at the same time my performance is horse shit. I was looking on advice on /pcmasterrace, people with similar or worse rigs than mine were shocked how I was basically at the bottom's barrel bottom of the barrel, while they had no issues to play at 1080p @ high or 1440p @ medium. What the heck is going on?
Guide 💡
Since I am a C# developer and very comfortable around configuration files, I figured it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the configuration files. And found something that I didn't believe. https://i.imgur.com/aOObDhn.png Please take a look at the above picture. This picture shows the configuration columns for each platform. PC, Durango, Orbis. (Durango & Orbis is what XBox & PlayStation run on). Now take a look at PoolCPU and PoolGPU. These values are the same as the other platforms. This looks off. So I decided to give it a try and just screw around with this config. So based off my rig I assigned some values that made a little more sense to me. https://i.imgur.com/xTnf0VX.png I assigned 16GB (of RAM I guess) to my CPU and 11GB of my GPU's VRAM. And howdy cowboy, my i7 finally woke the fuck up and started kicking in second gear, now working at 85 - 95% CPU usage. My 1080Ti also now uses 230 Watts on avg instead of a sad 100W. https://i.imgur.com/fP32eka.png Booted the game and et voila, I am now rocking a solid 60+ fps on:
High Settings
No Film Grain, No Ambient Occlusion, Lens Flare etc.
80 Fov
1440p
My loading times have gone down from 20 seconds to 2.
I can't put the emotion in words how I felt when I discovered this. It was something between disbelief, immense joy and confusion.
I can confirm GOG patch 1.04 and Steam patch 1.04 have this borked configuration file. If you need guidance on what to assign in your config:
PoolCPU: Use half of what your RAM is, make sure to leave 4GB for windows tho.
PoolGPU: Google your graphics card on google and see how much VRAM it has. For example my EVGA 1080Ti has 11 GB GDDR5X, so I am entering 11GB.
A fair bit of warning 💀
These changes can possibly crash your CyberPunk and Windows. I do not take any responsibility for any problems resulting from this.
CyberPunk will complain that it crashed, even when you close it. This shouldn't matter too much though.
Mileage may vary. I can't guarantee this will massively improve your performance, I can only say mine did a huge leap and the response from my friends has been very positive.
If anybody is more familiar with the configuration I am touching, please let me know and I will adjust it. I am merely showing this around because it looks like a promising starting point for many who have weird performance issues. If this helped you, please let us know with a short comment how much your FPS and joystick ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) went up.
Update: What we've learned.
Since this is starting to make bigger waves I decided to create a video compiling a lot of key points of this thread of all sorts. I made a 16 minute long video that should be a one-for-all guide catering all types of users. >>All-In-One Video Guide<<
If you prefer to go through this in a written version, the agenda i go off on in the video can be found below in prosa. Timestamps for the video: General Info: 0:00 Additional Fixes & Troubleshooting: 3:57 Calculating your Values: 6:58 Finding the file: 9:50 Explanations about the File: 10:30 Actually configuring it: 11:58 Zero Config & Theory Crafting: 14:28 Written Version: TLDR Possible Benefits * strong fps gains (up to 50%) * better stability, less jitter * better load times Condensation * newer processors seem to be already fed correctly, ryzens mostly * older processors seem to benefit a lot more from this, especially the 4th gen i7 / i5 (4790K) * scroll the thread. try to Ctrl + F your proc / gpu, a lot of kind people post references * deleting the file or entering critically low / impossible values will most likely resolved by the engine initializing with defaults * safe tryout can be the 'zero' config * its not placebo, its just possible the changes are very minimal for your setup Troubleshooting / Additional Fixes * VS Code is light & should replace notepad on windows. Treat yourself to a good editor. https://code.visualstudio.com * running 'Cyberpunk 2077.exe' as admin can help sometimes * make sure to run the latest nvidia drivers. * pay attention to formatting in the csv * yamashi's https://github.com/yamashi/PerformanceOverhaulCyberpunk (mentioned by u/SplunkMonkey) * u/-home 's https://www.reddit.com/Amd/comments/kbuswu/a_quick_hex_edit_makes_cyberpunk_better_utilize/ AMD Hex Edit (mentioned by u/Apneal) * if your pc starts to behave strange, lower the Pools, try zero config How To Calculate Values? * Task Manager / Performance * https://www.heise.de/download/product/gpu-z-53217/download for GPU-Z * Amount of RAM / 2 & leave atleast 4GB for windows Examples: 64GB RAM = 32GB 32GB RAM = 16GB - 24GB 16GB RAM = 8GB - 12GB 8GB RAM = 4GB Folder Locations Steam X:\...\Steam\steamapps\common\Cyberpunk 2077\engine\config GOG Y:\...\GOG Galaxy\Games\Cyberpunk 2077\engine\config Epic Games Z:\...\Epic Games\Cyberpunk 2077\engine\config My personalmemory_pool_budgets.csv ;;; ; ^[1-9][0-9]*(B|KB|MB|GB) - Pool budget ; -1 - Pool does not exist on the current platform ; 0 - Budget will be computed dynamically at runtime ; PC ; Durango ; Orbis PoolRoot ; ; ; PoolCPU ; 16GB ; 1536MB ; 1536MB PoolGPU ; 10GB ; 3GB ; 3GB PoolFlexible ; -1 ; -1 ; 0 PoolDefault ; 1KB ; 1KB ; 1KB PoolLegacyOperator ; 1MB ; 1MB ; 1MB PoolFrame ; 32MB ; 32MB ; 32MB PoolDoubleBufferedFrame ; 32MB ; 32MB ; 32MB PoolEngine ; 432MB ; 432MB ; 432MB PoolRefCount ; 16MB ; 16MB ; 16MB PoolDebug ; 512MB ; 512MB ; 512MB PoolBacked ; 512MB ; 512MB ; 512MB Donations I have been asked by a very small amount of people if there's another way they can send a little something my way besides reddit, so here's my business paypal: Paypal Link removed since 1.05 says this file does nothing. The one person who has donated 4.69$ will be refunded immediately. :) Please feel zero obligation to do so, I greatly appreciate it though if you decide to. Please consider donating money to the people creating performance mods (yamashi for example), creating a codebase like that takes a LOT of time and sending a digital coffee their way can be a serious motivation booster.
It all started with a small gift, $3,200 later and the project is done.
Last year, my business partner went out and purchased one of these: Samsung CRG9. Of course, he could not help but invite me over to see the thing. After I picked my jaw up off the floor, I left envious but happy to see he was happy with his new purchase. Fast forward a few months and he calls me back over to his house. I was certain he got a new toy and just wanted to brag again. Low and behold, there sat a shipping crate with my name on it. He got me one. What a guy. Its a good thing I make him a lot of money, lol. Anyway, my first thought was excitement. Then I realized that I did not have a computer that could properly drive the thing. Here is what I have replaced:
CPU - Intel Core i7-6700k (Overclocked to 4.6ghz)
CPU Cooler - Noctua NH-D15
Motherboard - MSI Z170A Gaming M7
RAM - 16gb PC-3200 DDR4
GPU - Gigabyte GTX 1080 (non-ti)
Case - Fractal Design Define R5
PSU - Seasonic X-850
Boot Drive - Intel 660p 500GB NVME M.2
Data Drive - Samsung 850 Evo 1TB
Data Drive - Sabrent Rocket 2TB NVME M.2 (added last year)
CPU - originally I was hoping to get a 5900x or even a 5950x. No, not because I do a bunch of productivity that would demand it. Simply because I wanted it. Guess what, unless I wanted to support a scalper, that just was not going to happen. Benchmarks on the 5800x put its gaming performance on par with 5900x. It also has 8 cores, which should keep it relevant for this entire console cycle as developers write software to take full advantage of multi-core gaming. I originally bought the 5800x through Newegg but due to substantial issues with shipping and delivery I ended up re-ordering the processor through B&H. Newegg still hasn't sent me my purchase nor issued me a refund. B&H has been wonderful.
GPU - Yes, I overpaid. But not by much. The retail on this card is $1,099. I got it for at 26% premium, which is almost directly in-line with the new tariffs. I am happy with it. And this thing is amazing. I chose AMD instead of going team-green this time purely because the only card that competes with the 6900XT is going for $2,400 even at retail now (RTX 3090). Frankly, I don't see much visual difference with ray-tracing (I am visually impaired) but I do see huge difference in proper freesync and smooth frame rates.
RAM - 64gb is a lot. And no I do not need it. But now I can tell myself I could dual boot and run virtual machines and set up a RAM disk. I won't likely ever do those things, but I can tell myself I will. And that feels pretty good.
All in all, I am very happy with the build. I put it all together and it actually booted right up, which feels nice. My ISP is probably wondering why I have downloaded 2TB of data in the last 24 hours, but I have gigabit internet for a reason. Now it is off to play Cyberpunk 2077 at 5120x1440 and have it run smooth as butter.
New UEFI BIOS updates for ASUS AMD motherboards W05 - B450, X470, X570 - 13 Boards - Includes formal (NON BETA) AGESA V2 PI 1.2.0.0
New UEFI BIOS updates
For ASUS AMD motherboards – W05
AMD – X570, X470, B450 *For many boards this includes the formal release of AGESA V2 PI 1.2.0.0
UEFI BIOS update list noted below – A total of 13 boards with a UEFI BIOS update. I have revised the title and moving forward will note the chipsets included in the title post for clarity - For reference, the W05 is in relation to the workweek. Why is my motherboard not listed? If you are looking for your motherboard/model I would suggest going to https://www.asus.com/us/support/ and checking if it has been updated recently. I post updates on a weekly basis. Many times UEFI’s are releases in waves, this can mean it can take an entire series weeks or months to see the “same” update if it includes items like CPU firmware. Furthermore, keep in mind that not all updates are for all models. Due to inherent design differences as well as specification and feature variation an update may only be applicable to a specific model. How can I be notified about releases? If you want to be kept in the loop, you can also follow me for notifications when updates are released/posted. I am also the admin for our PCDIY Facebook Group where I post updates and other ASUS centric product news https://www.facebook.com/groups/ASUSPCDIY How long after a board is produced will UEFI updates be released? Keep in mind that generally after a year and a half boards tend to reach a certain maturity level and see fewer updates. If you feel you have an issue that is dependent on a UEFI release please submit a support ticket. In some cases, some boards can see updates for more than 24 months+ I want to update but am not sure how to update the UEFI "BIOS"? If you want guidance on how to flash/update your UEFI BIOS please watch the video linked below. It will guide you through the flashing process as well as provide insight into important items to keep in mind when flashing/updating the UEFI BIOS. How to Flash / Update your UEFI BIOS on ASUS Motherboards - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scK8AP8ZACc Should I update the UEFI if my system is stable and running without issue? If your system is running without issue, especially if overclocked in any way ( including DRAM ) it is recommended you stay on the build/release you are on. Changes to underlying auto rules and other operating parameters can change the OC experience and require you to retune a previously stable OC value. This does not mean the UEFI is not a functioning/reliable release but that changes in the underlying code base need to be accounted for when tuning a system. As many of these values are low level or specific operating parameters that can affect performance tuning/overclocking it is best to retune from full UEFI defaults after you have re run stability test at UEFI defaults. Users who update from stock to stock settings will generally experience the smoothest transition experience. Will a UEFI update improve my overclocking experience? A UEFI update can improve multiple aspects of the OC experience from extending frequencies, improving stability as well as add new ways to overclock. It is important to note that there are inherent challenges and realities in overclocking including silicon variance and this cannot be overcome purely from a UEFI update. Will a UEFI update change my operating experience? Power consumption, heat, etc? With microcode updates and changes to underlying performance tuning auto rules there can be improvements to boosting behaviors, changes to auto rules to voltages, or many other parameters that can influence and affect temperature, performance scores, and power consumption. It is important to always run like to like default values for direct comparison. This means verification of the end operating experience should be first verified with default operating values ( F5 ) and ideally, a fresh installation of chipset drivers, updated build of Windows, and optimized Windows power profile. What if the UEFI BIOS listed is a BETA? Should I update? BETA UEFI releases are for enthusiasts who want access to the latest features, functions, and microcode enhancements, and overall UEFI improvements. As they are not officially supported they are not recommended for day to day / long term use. Users who plan to use their system in this capacity and want to ensure the best interoperability/compatibility and stability, as well as performance, should wait for a formal release.
Not every user should update/flash their UEFI BIOS. I stress this again, if you are running without issue(s) you are advised to stay on the release you are running.
Notes to consider -* When flashing please perform the update process at full UEFI defaults. Do NOT flash with an overclocked system/profile.
I recommend updating the UEFI BIOS on your motherboard for new PC builds. This helps to ensure the best interoperability, compatibility, and performance. If you are building a PC and have not yet installed the OS, I would recommend you update the UEFI.
Keep in mind flashing/updating the UEFI will reset all defined parameters/settings and operating profiles. You will not be able to restore defined values by using a UEFI Profile as profiles are not interoperable between builds. It is advised you note or screenshot (F12) your values prior to flashing if they are complex. Upon completing a flash I would recommend you load UEFI defaults after the fact and complete a full reboot and shutdown prior to reloading or entering any customized UEFI values.
When you update the UEFI and reload UEFI defaults depending on your originally defined BOOT values you may need to adjust CSM settings either enabling or disabling CSM. If you experience BOOT related issues after an update please adjust the CSM accordingly.
Be advised that in some cases a rollback to a prior UEFI is not possible. This generally is the case when there is an update that includes CPU microcode ( such as an AMD AEGSA or Intel ME ). This means you may not be able to “flash back” to a prior release.
While not always necessary some UEFI updates may require a clearing of the CMOS to reset the UEFI and ensure normal functionality. This means after you flash you may need to CLR the CMOS to have the system POST. You can either clear the CMOS via the CLR CMOS button if your motherboard supports it or by removing the onboard CMOS battery for at least a few minutes. You can also attempt to locate the CLR CMOS jumper on the motherboard and short the pins to clear the CMOS.
I also recommend you backup your system prior to any flash/update and always advise flash/update become executed from a fresh loading (F5) of UEFI defaults. The board model/name is on the right-hand side and the version number is on the left-hand side. To download the UEFI BIOS please go to https://www.asus.com/support/ AMD – 1.ROG CROSSHAIR VIII FORMULA3204 2.ROG CROSSHAIR VIII HERO(WI-FI)3204 3.ROG CROSSHAIR VIII HERO3204 4.ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT3204 5.PRO WS X570-ACE3204 6.ROG CROSSHAIR VIII DARK HERO3204 7.ROG CROSSHAIR VII HERO4204 8.ROG CROSSHAIR VII HERO(WI-FI)4204 9.ROG STRIX X470-I GAMING4204 10.ROG STRIX B450-E GAMING4204 11.ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING4204 12.ROG STRIX B450-I GAMING4204 13.ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING II4204
Lessons I learnt the long/hard way, so you don't have to.
Update Thank you for all the comments below. I've tried to include as many tips and fail safes you have mentioned, in this post. I do recommend people read the comments as I may have missed some. Firstly, thank you to this excellent community my PC is now built and working (pics to come in another post). I thought here are some lessons I learnt in building the PC, researching and other bits I thought would be worth sharing, as a lot of this I never had even heard about. Some will be obvious and others less so. I should note, that I'm not a pro or someone who does this regularly, just someone who spent a while reading around, so feel free to correct/highlight any mistakes, and I'll try to update the post. The descriptions, aren't really meant to be a full lesson about each part and will be lacking a lot of detail, but are more a jumping board for further reading if anyone is interested. For full information on building a PC I highly recommend looking around on YouTube and other sources. If I get anything wrong, please correct me and I'll update. On Monitors:
Freesync vs Gsync. For simplicity, both these technologies aim to match performance on screen with your GPU. Freesync works with Radeon, GSync with NVidia (although some Freesync monitors will be GSync compatible, likewise for the otherway around). It's complicated and due to changes in the standards over the years it can vary from monitor to monitor. Make sure to do research on the specific monitor you're wanting to get/have. If you are buying a new monitor keep this in mind. https://www.viewsonic.com/library/entertainment/g-sync-vs-free-sync-explainedUpdateAccording to comments freesync monitors will almost always work with Nvidia. As always, do read around about it.
Windows by default is set to have a refresh rate of 60Hz, if you have a higher spec monitor you can change this to match your monitor in "Advanced Display settings".
Your motherboard will prefer your dual channel RAM to be in specific slots. I had an issue where I couldn't get the maximum performance of my RAM which I had placed in slots 1 and 3, but the moment I put them in 2 and 4 it worked perfectly. Check your motherboard manual.
Enable XMP in Bios (This might also be called DOCP or A-XMP). This will vary between motherboards, but if you don't your 3200MHz ram is likely running a lot slower. In my build, XMP wouldn't work till I put the RAM in the correct channels, hope this saves someone the hours I spent finding this out ;) Update You can use Task manager to verify you have done this correctly. 3b. Someone pointed this out XMP may void your CPU's processor (https://community.amd.com/t5/processors/xmp-profile-ram-3200-mhz-and-amd-warranty-policy-for-ryzen/td-p/145798) (https://community.intel.com/t5/Processors/XMP-Warranty-void/td-p/1196241). If anyone knows any more, please message me directly so I can add the details. This was mentioned by someone in the comments and I would rather pass the information and ask you to do your own checking as well.
When picking RAM, frequency matters, but so does CAS Latency. You want high frequency but low CAS (CL) latency. I'd recommend doing more reading about it, if you want to know more I'd recommend doing some more reading, but the "true latency" can be calculated as TL = CL * 2000/Freq. E.g. CL 18 3600Mhz Ram has a TL of 10ns. Update Someone who actually knows what they are talking about found point (4) confusing if not perhaps misguided and I recommend you read their post here (https://www.reddit.com/buildapc/comments/kis9r5/lessons_i_learnt_the_longhard_way_so_you_dont/ggtdudd?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Ensure the speed of the RAM is compatible with the board you are looking to purchase (or visa versa).
Motherboards will have Qualified Vendor Lists, listing RAM they have tested and certified to work. This may be worth looking at. Just because your RAM isn't on the list doesn't mean it won't work, or won't overclock, it just means it hasn't been certified to, so do take this into consideration. (I found this in my build, while it was from Crucial and some Crucial RAM was on the QVL, mine wasn't. Thankfully it was fine.)
Motherboards
Newer processors (e.g. at time of writing many AMD motherboards require a bios update for the 5000 series AMD CPU) may require you to install a new BIOS before they can be detected. Not all motherboards can have their bios updated without a CPU installed. When shopping for your motherboard looking to see if it does USB Bios flashback should be considered. This was completely new to me and glad I learnt it in time.*Addition* Newer motherboards don't require bios updates and so won't need this feature, though you will have to check.
Different mother boards are compatible with different CPUs, pick your CPU first
CPU coolers may need different mountings depending on the CPU. When picking your cooler keep this in mind, you may need to ensure there is an adaptor. Additions from the comments
Not all mother boards have connectors for front IO USB-C. If this is important to you and part of your case, it's worth looking into.
Using an M.2 usually disables some of your SATA ports. If you are planning on using all your SATA ports, make sure to check to see if this happens and how it happens on your chosen mother board.
Some motherboards are built with Debug LEDs now that will help you diagnose problems.
Some CPU's have integrated graphics. If you don't want to buy a dedicated graphics card, you need to purchase one of these CPU's. You then plug your monitor into the motherboard.
Make sure all your components are compatible. PC Part Picker (https://pcpartpicker.com/) is generally pretty good at this. If uncertain, this is a wonderful community to ask.
Power supply
PC Part Picker gives you a good idea as to how much power your system will need, if not check the graphics card you intend to buy. Not all machines need a 1000W behemoth. Picking the right one will save you money
Make sure your PSU fits in your case. I bought an ATX PSU, then decided on the 011 Dynamic Mini case, only realise it needed a SFX (smaller) PSU. I ended up going for a different case. Likewise an SFX PSU may not have the cable length you need or fit as snuggly in an ATX case (source: comments section)
Ninite (https://ninite.com/) Is an easy way to download all the basic programs one tends to install onto a fresh Windows install, without having to go to 10-15 websites. E.g. you can select to install Chrome, Zoom, Steam, OpenOffice all from one installer. If you keep the install, it can also be re-run to update all the software in one swoop.
Chocolatey (https://chocolatey.org/) A powerful command line way to install and upgrade software.
Storage
M2 drives can be SATA or NVMe, NVMe is faster. (M2 drives are generally plugged directly into the mother board, for anyone who until recently was using a hard disk drive and considered SSDs "fancy")
If your case has bottom intake or exhaust vents, don't put it directly on carpet, as it can block the air flow. (Yup....I did need to be told this ^_^, my previous computer just didn't have any bottom intake, hell it hardly had any intake).
Make sure your mother board, PSU, GPU and all your components fit in the case. This is particularly worth noting if you are going for a micro ATX or a ITX case. Worth noting is to remember to include fans + GPU length, any additional length caused by radiators (if you water cool), the size of your CPU cooler (if you air cool) Additions from the comments
When considering your case, if you are water cooling, "Room for 2x 140mm fans does not always mean room for a radiator as well". Make sure to double check the clearance. Measure twice buy once.
Advice on building (Notes and horror stories from the comments) 1. Many new coolers come with pre-applied thermal paste. If yours doesn't don't forget to apply it, to the CPU (See videos by people with more experience/knowledge than me on what to do). 2. Remember your mother board I/O shield (advice from the comments about making sure to put it in before you install the motherboard, mine came with it attached). 3. Make sure the CPU is correctly installed before you clasp it down. 4. If your motherboard has two slots to install a GPU. One of them (normally the top) will provide better performance. Make sure to use the correct one. 5. Make sure your CPU cooler doesn't block a RAM slot. In making my PC the AMD wraith has a notch on one side with the AMD logo, thankfully I put the RAM in first, so I swiftly learnt that I had to rotate the cooler 180 degrees to get it to fit. 6. If you can avoid it, do not build your computer on carpet (and do not stand on carpet when building) and be aware of static when building. If this is your first build, do some reading around this. Wear a static bracelet and attach it to something grounded. 7. Remember if you have a dedicated graphics card. Plug your monitor into the graphics card, not the motherboard. 8. If you are installing fans, make sure they are in the correct direction. 9. When playing the radiator of your AIO (if you are using one) make sure part of it is higher than the pump (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk) 10. It's often worth the time to read the motherboard manual. 11. This may sound silly, but cables and the sockets on the PSU are often labelled. Be aware of this, it will help you in the build. More subjective advice
I've been recommend by numerous people to go for Gold+ PSUs, with often being stated that while its more efficient, it will also be better made. Your budget may dictate otherwise. If you look through the comments you will frequently find the advice "don't cheap out on the PSU and go for at least Gold"
For most users if your CPU comes with a stock cooler. It will be good enough. You can always change it later. If your planning to overclock, you likely know more than me, so feel free to ignore. Update According to the comments, AMD stock coolers tend to be considered good enough, Intel, not so much.
A LOT of people below have said "Do not mix cables from different PSU manufacturers." as they are not universal. I don't know anything about this, so do some additional reading if you are considering doing so. Update From further comments this is something to take serious. Update from further comments, the word of advice is "Do your research before using cables not supplied with the PSU you are using."
Further notes from the comments: Below are points I've read in the comments that might be worth drawing to people attention. Please read around the topic if it applies to you. 1. One person has said XMP causes their Oculus Rift to do weird things. Hope this helps some people. Addition I recommend reading the comments, as many people have put in their own tips/horror stories ;) Take care all and Merry Christmas.
Game Ready & Studio Driver 461.40 has been released.
New feature and fixes in driver 461.40:
Game Ready - This new Game Ready Driver provides support for The Medium, a new adventure-horror game that features ray tracing and our performance-accelerating NVIDIA DLSS technology. Studio Applications - The January NVIDIA Studio Driver provides optimal support for the latest creative applications including Affinity Photo (now with GPU-acceleration) and the NVIDIA Broadcast 1.1 Update. In addition, this release also provides support for the latest NVIDIA Studio laptops powered by new GeForce RTX 30 Series GPUs. Gaming Technology
Includes support for GeForce RTX 30 Series laptops (RTX 3080, RTX 3070, RTX 3060).
Game Ready & Studio Driver Fixes (For full list of fixes please check out release notes)
[X4: Foundations][Vulkan]: The game may crash on GeForce RTX 30 series GPUs. [3220107]
[X4: Foundations][Vulkan]: HUD in the game is broken. [3169099]
[Resident Evil 2 Remake/Devil May Cry V] Games which used the RE2 engine may crash in DirectX 11 mode [200686418]
[DaVinci Resolve]: Error 707, application crash, or application instability may occur. [3225521]
[Adobe Premiere Pro]: The application may freeze when using Mercury Playback Engine GPU Acceleration (CUDA). [3230997/200686504]
[Zoom][NVENC]: Webcam video image colors on the receiving end of Zoom may appear incorrect. [3205912]
[Detroit: Become Human]: The game randomly crashes. [3203114]
[Steam VR game]: Stuttering and lagging occur upon launching a game (without running running any GPU hardware monitoring tool in the background) [3152190]
[Assassin's Creed Valhalla]: The game may randomly crash after extended gameplay [200679654]
NVIDIA Broadcast Camera filter may hang. [200691869]
[Zoom]: Chrome browser flickers with Zoom app. [200695072]
[G-SYNC][Surround][RTX 30 series] PC may restart when enabling NVIDIA Surround with GSYNC enabled on RTX 30 series GPUs. [3202303]
Game Ready & Studio Driver Important Open Issues (For full list of open issues please check out release notes)
[World of Warcraft: Shadowlands]: Random flicker may occur in certain locations in the game [3206341]
[Supreme CommandeSupreme Commander 2]: The games experience low FPS. [3231218]
Wallpaper Engine app may crash on startup or upon resume from sleep. [3208963]
[Batman Arkham Knight]: The game crashes when turbulence smoke is enabled. [3202250]
[Steam VR game]: Stuttering and lagging occur upon launching a game while any GPU hardware monitoring tool is running in the background. [3152190]
[G-SYNC][NVIDIA Ampere/Turing GPU architecture]: GPU power consumption may increase in idle mode on systems using certain higher refresh-rate G-SYNC monitors. [200667566]
[YouTube]: Video playback stutters while scrolling down the YouTube page. [3129705]
[Notebook]: Some Pascal-based notebooks w/ high refresh rate displays may randomly drop to 60Hz during gameplay. [3009452]
[G-Sync][Vulkan Apps]: Performance drop occurs when using G-SYNC and switching from full-screen mode to windowed mode using the in-game settings. [200681477]
To workaround, either launch the game in windowed mode directly or disable G-SYNC.
Before you start - Make sure you Submit Feedback for your Nvidia Driver Issue There is only one real way for any of these problems to get solved, and that’s if the Driver Team at Nvidia knows what those problems are. So in order for them to know what’s going on it would be good for any users who are having problems with the drivers to Submit Feedback to Nvidia. A guide to the information that is needed to submit feedback can be found here. Additionally, if you see someone having the same issue you are having in this thread, reply and mention you are having the same issue. The more people that are affected by a particular bug, the higher the priority that bug will receive from NVIDIA!! Common Troubleshooting Steps
If you are having issue installing the driver for GTX 1080/1070/1060 on Windows 10, make sure you are on the latest build for May 2019 Update (Version 1903). If you are on the older version/build (e.g. Version 1507/Build 10240), you need to update your windows. Press Windows Key + R and type winver to check your build version.
Please visit the following link for DDU guide which contains full detailed information on how to do Fresh Driver Install.
If your driver still crashes after DDU reinstall, try going to Go to Nvidia Control Panel -> Managed 3D Settings -> Power Management Mode: Prefer Maximum Performance
If it still crashes, we have a few other troubleshooting steps but this is fairly involved and you should not do it if you do not feel comfortable. Proceed below at your own risk:
A lot of driver crashing is caused by Windows TDR issue. There is a huge post on GeForce forum about this here. This post dated back to 2009 (Thanks Microsoft) and it can affect both Nvidia and AMD cards.
Unfortunately this issue can be caused by many different things so it’s difficult to pin down. However, editing the windows registry might solve the problem.
Additionally, there is also a tool made by Wagnard (maker of DDU) that can be used to change this TDR value. Download here. Note that I have not personally tested this tool.
If you are still having issue at this point, visit GeForce Forum for support or contact your manufacturer for RMA. Common Questions
Is it safe to upgrade to ?Fact of the matter is that the result will differ person by person due to different configurations. The only way to know is to try it yourself. My rule of thumb is to wait a few days. If there’s no confirmed widespread issue, I would try the new driver.
Bear in mind that people who have no issues tend to not post on Reddit or forums. Unless there is significant coverage about specific driver issue, chances are they are fine. Try it yourself and you can always DDU and reinstall old driver if needed.
My color is washed out after upgrading/installing driver. Help!Try going to the Nvidia Control Panel -> Change Resolution -> Scroll all the way down -> Output Dynamic Range = FULL.
My game is stuttering when processing physics calculationTry going to the Nvidia Control Panel and to the Surround and PhysX settings and ensure the PhysX processor is set to your GPU
What does the new Power Management option “Optimal Power” means? How does this differ from Adaptive?The new power management mode is related to what was said in the Geforce GTX 1080 keynote video. To further reduce power consumption while the computer is idle and nothing is changing on the screen, the driver will not make the GPU render a new frame; the driver will get the one (already rendered) frame from the framebuffer and output directly to monitor.
Remember, driver codes are extremely complex and there are billions of different possible configurations. The software will not be perfect and there will be issues for some people. For a more comprehensive list of open issues, please take a look at the Release Notes. Again, I encourage folks who installed the driver to post their experience here... good or bad.
Overall, it feels a lot of care and thought went into making Valhalla feel less like a checklist of things to do and more like a world to organically experience.
Valhalla’s most intriguing story is one about faith, honor, and family, but it’s buried inside this massive, massive world stuffed with combat and side quests. That balance is not always ideal, but I’m glad, at least, that it forces me to spend more time seeking out interesting things in the game’s world.
Its new skill system promotes experimentation with different builds, and gear has been streamlined in a way where you’re not constantly chasing bigger numbers every single moment. Level grinding has all but disappeared, and the new setting just oozes atmosphere and theme. Boring protagonist aside, Valhalla is definitely the strongest of the new Assassin’s Creed RPG trilogy.
Some amazing changes to the way the game is presented, all for the better, can't get out of the way from somewhat weightless combat, bugs and other issues.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla is the best Assassin's Creed ever. Fully embracing its new genre and giving players so much choice and freedom has paid off handsomely. There's not really much more to say. You simply have to experience it for yourself.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla is the best tale the franchise has ever told, featuring the most varied and rewarding gameplay the series has seen in years. Valhalla will forever dine in Odin's Hall as one of the greatest RPGs of this generation.
It is, undoubtedly, the best Ubisoft has to offer at this stage in time, and will forever be regarded as one of the greats in the Assassin's Creed franchise.
A intriguing change of pace that gives the Assassin's Creed series the breathing room it has so desperately needed for eons, without making any compromises on content. Well worth you time to enter the gates of Valhalla.
A saga for the ages, Assassin's Creed Valhalla is a breathtaking journey of discovery that has a cold charm to it. It is both serious and ludicrous in equal measure, an RPG that has added more than it has removed from its core experience while delivering a game that feels familiar and completely new at the same time. Skal!
That being said, as far as the gameplay is concerned, this series is going nowhere interesting at this point there while there will be more, and I really implore Ubisoft to take a good, hard look at the bloat and consider whether a more streamlined approach that doesn't get in the way of the best feature (the history and narrative) would not be wiser next time around.
As an Assassin's Creed fan who has stuck by the series through its high points, and was certainly disappointed by many of its low points, I can confidently say that what Ubisoft has crafted here was not only crafted with an immense amount of love and respect for the series, but for its fans as well. Assassin's Creed Valhalla is one Viking adventure you certainly don't want to miss.
Like I said at the beginning, you kind of want these games at some point to stop working, but… Assassin’s Creed: Valhalla really works. It works in all the ways it wants to work. It takes the bones of its predecessor and improves the overall gameplay significantly, giving players plenty to do, characters to invest in, and a satisfying core gameplay loop that’s been refined down to a careful formula at this point.
With a sprawling world to conquer and gory combat but also the chance to use that iconic hidden blade, Assassin's Creed Valhalla brings a triumphant balance to the series.
Assassin's Creed's third crack at the massive open world RPG formula is also its most confident, making for a streamlined yet sprawling adventure that ranks as one of the best the series has delivered since its inception over a decade ago.
Assassin's Creed: Valhalla may be an even further step away from the traditional Assassin's Creed recipe but it is still a great game. Besides the addictive combat and fantastic skill tree, I loved how it fixed the pacing issues from Odyssey. I had a purpose this time around and knew where I was going and what I was doing. The Viking setting is refreshing too and delivers some decent tales to experience while exploring a breathtaking world.
Assassin’s Creed Valhalla takes the advancements of the series found in Odyssey and applies it to a whole new setting. As brutal as the period of Vikings is, there’s something beautiful about this adventure. Every action is rewarded with some great moments of storytelling, and aside from a few narrative roadblocks tied to the player’s level, there’s an amazing world here just waiting to be discovered.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla blends old and new to create a unique experience and one of the best Assassin's Creed experiences yet. It combines series-best combat, a compelling story, and mesmerizing locales to dually offer a definitive Viking and assassin experience.
Ubisoft delivers another open-world epic, but this time it's a focused and streamlined affair. The graphical overhaul works to announce the end of one era and the beginning of another as Assassin's Creed continues its ongoing evolution as an accessible action-adventure for the long-time fans, while still offering a deep RPG experience for those introduced via Origins and Odyssey.
Like Origins, Valhalla benefits from a year off with a fresh audience. It doesn’t reboot this time, but instead improves upon the duo it’s following, introducing proven elements from some of the best in the business.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla streamlines the best parts of Origins and Odyssey while trimming the fat, though is hampered consistently by bugs and technical problems. Still, it's a journey well worth taking.
This is not a tactical assassination simulator - it's a complicated, crafted and nearly perfect open world experience that (if you give it a chance) it will win you over
Eivor's tale is an interesting story to experience and the gameplay that comes along the journey is liberating without being repetitive. With that, we recommend the game fully. It's not without its flaws. Even under the shadow of its predecessors, Valhalla is certainly a game that stands on its own.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla is a definite step up for the series, thanks to the many tweaks made to the RPG mechanics that powered the previous two entries in the series, better storytelling, great atmosphere, and meaningful side-content. Even with the tweaks, however, Assassin's Creed Valhalla is still an Assassin's Creed game at heart, so those who are not into the Ubisoft open-world game design will hardly change their opinion with the game.
Fans of the series are going to adore Assassin's Creed Valhalla. Origins and Odyssey felt like Ubisoft trying something new, stretching out and seeing what worked, and Valhalla takes what was learned there and expands upon it. Some things, like the combat, don't feel quite there yet, still, but other elements absolutely have evolved for the better. There's a lot to love here, and not just in the frankly absurd amount of content available. The story is fantastically enjoyable, with Eivor really shining throughout (play Female for what feels the canon story!) - they are truly deserving of standing alongside the icons of this long-running series. This is a legendary tale and an addition to the franchise that is good enough for the gods.
Assassin's Creed: Valhalla builds its world around a familiar formula, but with a compelling story and plenty of things to do, it's a game series fans will find inviting.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla is a massive, beautiful open-world fueled by brutal living and the dirty work of conquerors. It's a lot buggier than it should be but also impressive on multiple levels.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla is everything I hoped it would be, and more. It sells the Viking fantasy flawlessly, is brimming gorgeous locations, vistas and interesting characters, and will keep you busy for 100 or so hours if you want to grab everything on offer. It's buggy in places, and the grinding is overwhelming at times to the point where it spoils the feeling of exploration and progression. However, these shortcomings can be overlooked if you're willing to stick with it. And you should, because Eivor's journey is one worth soaking up.
Ubisoft is known for their fun open worlds, but it appears that experience and previous stumbles have seen them take big steps forward, making Valhalla one of their best Assassin's Creed games in recent memory.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla is fun, with its many activities and a rewarding gameplay loop. There is nothing better than rocking up to a monastery with your raucous crew and robbing them blind.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla provides a gorgeous playground to explore with excellent combat. Though the story seems unnecessarily long, it's a fun Viking tale mixed with the series' own flare and sci-fi elements.
Assassin's Creed Valhalla's vision of ninth-century England is a beautiful place to explore, populated with a great cast of characters who make up for the bland new protagonist, Eivor. Nevertheless, the tired overarching story of Templars and Assassins, and a design ethos that overstuffs the setting with side activities, add unnecessary bloat and distractions to the experience. Valhalla's a solid action-adventure game that does well to capture the turmoil of its historical era, but it's weighed down by the increasingly ponderous legacy of the series it represents.
But I also found myself making excuses for Assassin's Creed Valhalla until I couldn't any longer. It mimics the Odyssey formula but takes a step backward in almost every way. It sacrifices story for scale. It's designed to discourage stealth in favor of epic battles. It's true to the Viking experience, but it isn't true to the Assassin's Creed experience. That's why it comes off feeling like the least essential game in the whole series. Impressive in some of its accomplishments, but inessential all the same.
Assassin's Creed: Valhalla is a mostly solid, if somewhat unambitious, Assassin's Creed game that is dragged down by a shockingly poor PS4 release. I look forward to seeing how it runs on a PS5, but the last-gen version is hard to recommend due to the sheer amount of issues that I encountered while playing through the game. If you discount those issues, Valhalla would be a comfortable 8.0, but one can't just ignore those issues. Fans looking to continue the franchise's story should wait until Valhalla receives a series of patches or until they can pick up a next-gen version.
Obsessing over playtime and Content™ at the cost of innovation and depth puts Valhalla‘s ability to actually get into Valhalla in question, as it doesn’t quite earn the kind of glory that only the best Vikings achieve.
Greetings and good day! As a 22 year old graduating nursing student, I lacked the requisite knowledge, the necessary budget and the required amount of time to learn how to build and set up my own PC. However, despite the horrors and adversity the pandemic has given to all of us worldwide; A positive thing about being locked down and isolated is the enormous amount of spare time we can use to learn and improve on things we are passionate about. For the past few months, I've been deep into this rabbit hole stemming from curiosity; It started with LTT Build Guides then to reading various forums on information. Still I was bottlenecked, The time constraints and information deficit was alleviated but the budget was no where to be found but my tinkering spirit needed to be indulged. Desperate, especially since I needed another PC separate from the laptop I currently use for school works which is almost full due to saved recordings of class proceedings. I searched through the basement of my grandmother's ancestral home and found the Acer Aspire 4315 laptop she bought in the mid to late 2000s and a Sega Victor V-Saturn Console [And before you flame me out because this is PCMR, read ahead as it may get better, and for those unfamiliar; the Sega Victor V-Saturn is a JVC branded variant of the Sega Saturn] which was given to me by my uncle. Initial boot up of the laptop, which due to the lack of an LCD panel and a very short VGA Cable, had to be ziptied to the back of a monitor. Upon initial assessment, the laptop only had the bottom half of the shell; thankfully, the motherboard, I/O and plastic shell (Although full of cracks) was still intact although it lacked SODIMM Memory, a storage drive, a battery, a monitor, a speaker, Mini PCIe Wifi Card and had a broken audio I/O port and a broken keyboard. I was able to procure the various parts needed to make it boot from my inventory of harvested parts from previous laptops I've owned such as the 512 mb of DDR2 SODIMM Memory, a 256 gb Western Digital 5400 2.5" HDD and a USB Wifi Card.The Saturn was in much better shape. When I took both home and booted them up it was surprising seeing the Laptop successfully boot (A fact exemplified by the photo above, which I took and sent directly to my brother in surprise) while the Saturn was beyond the grave and dead AF. To put context into both these machines; On November 2013, our province was devastated by the Super Typhoon Haiyan or Typhoon Yolanda as we called it. Thankfully for us, no one from our family was hurt or lost during the event but most of our material things including hardware were presumed to be damage to the point of no repair or dead included in those hardware were these two machines. It was incredibly surprising to see the Acer Laptop survive the tragedy and time being on the shelf. Upon cleaning up the fans and changing the thermal paste which had been there for more than a decade, I noticed that it was a Socket P processor which was up-gradable. Mulling over it the next days, I finally decided to do something about the casing, since it was really irritating seeing it behind the monitor. Initially, I wanted to transplant the motherboard into a broken sub woofer's wooden box and integrate a bluetooth speaker into it but seeing as how my tools only included a pair of screw drivers, box cutters, a hack saw, electrical tape and a hot glue, it was not meant to be. Ultimately, since the motherboard's PCB and the dimensions of the Saturn were all too similar, I just had to pull the trigger.Once I removed the electrical and hardware components of the Saturn and gave it to a local electronics recycler, removed the plastic standoffs for the internals; giving me a flat surface to work and painted it (Further reading..) it was ready for work. Unfortunately, I was unable to take photos of the build process because at the time I considered it insignificant and had a success rate of 0%. The laptop casing was sawed in half and literally placed on top of the Saturn's Shell. Casing - since the PCB was slightly larger due to the protruding fans than the Saturn's Shell. I cut a hole in the rear left side of the Saturn; while it already had an access door, had to be expanded due to the size of the PCB. Another opening had to be cut for the video output. Another concern to consider was mounting the motherboard into the casing, initially, I had planned on super gluing mother board standoffs in order to slightly elevate the motherboard but was unable to procure the necessary standoffs locally. So, in defiance of proper PC building, I literally sawed off the plastic shell of the laptop to the point in which it fit into the Saturn's shell and used the plastic standoffs in the laptop's shell to mount the PCB. Holding both casings were a pair of zip ties. The underside of the Saturn, showing the two zip-ties which joined the Saturn's casing and the laptop's sawed off casing. Paint- - A cousin of mine wanted to try hydro-dipping and the top portion of the shell was a viable test candidate. And you might say I violated the art of this machine and it may have looked perfect physical but its paint was yellow as a jaundice. It needed to go and frankly, good riddance. Still kept the bottom portion though in order to retain some of the Saturn's design The top portion of the shell. Cooling -The laptop's processor heat sink and fan still worked but to increase the lifespan of the system I wanted to add a secondary fan but since there are no fan headers, I salvaged an old PC 3 pin fan and wired up the 5V and ground wires to a USB 2.0 Male, cut a hole on the disc tray portion of the casing and mounted it blowing towards the mother board.. It works while it may be slower than if powered by a 12V source, it's still very effective as it keeps the processor at 23-25 degrees Celsius at idle and 40-50 degrees Celsius at a full load. I'm still hoping to source a fan filter. Inputs and Outputs - The laptop has 3 USB 2.0 ports and No USB 3.0 Ports, which is not enough considering I had to insert a USB Mouse, USB keyboard, 5V USB Fan and USB Audio Port. With this in mind, I bought a cheap USB 2.0 Hub for the equivalent of $ 3.34 at a local mall and a sourced a USB Audio Port online for the equivalent of $ 3.95 with shipping. Granted they were cheap, made of plastic and its quality was alright at best, I was still satisfied with their performance especially the USB 2.0 Hub. Hoping to find a PCMCIA USB 3.0 Card although drivers might be my enemy when I pursue that route. Audio was fine, could be better but couldn't complain; better something than nothing at all. Rear view, exposing the VGA Port and Fan exhaust cut out. Connectivity - At first, I had a TP-Link USB Wifi Card but upon digging my storage further, I was able to find a Wireless-N Mini PCIe Wifi Card but noted the lack of antennas. I was able to salvage antennas from a broken router left behind by our previous ISP (It has been 4 years since and they still haven't taken back the router) luckily, antennas were an IPEX wire which was the ones that connected to the wifi card.Since the card could not be physically screwed into place due to its diminutive size; I took a jank solution as you can see below. mini PCIe Wifi Card mounting mechanism (and yes, further cleaning is needed on those fans) - USB Ports are screwed into the other as space is limited. CPU - since it was a Socket P processor (it was a Celeron 540; single core). The laptop sports a GL960 Chipset which supports upto a 533mhz FSB but upon reading some forums, I've learned that it may be able to support C2Ds with a bus speed of upto 800mhz. Seeing as the Core 2 Duo T9500 but seeing as it was close to $50.00 with shipping; I was bottlenecked yet again and settled with the Core 2 Duo T8100 which I bought online for the equivalent of $ 7.78 as of posting including shipping. Still a very competent upgrade selection especially for the price. Storage - One of my cousins offered to give me their 1TB External HDD if I could recover their files such as vacation images and work files; turns out it was a physical connection damage and was easily able to recover the files. Of course, I offered to give back the 1 TB Drive but they insisted I use it since they already moved on the another external drive. Thanks. Immediately cloned my installation of Windows 7 from the 256 GB into the 1 TB 2.5" SATA Drive in the external HDD. RAM - While I was able to procure another 512gb of memory, it was not enough. Luckily, another uncle of mine (Yes, we have plenty of relatives) had a broken HP Laptop that had 2 sticks of 1GB DDR2 SODIMM. Thanks again! Now, I'm able to run dual channel and benefit from the increase in memory bandwidth. Power - Since it had no battery and the battery was unreasonably expensive, I settled on using an old laptop power brick which needed to be adapted to fit the laptop's barrel port. Luckily, I was able to use a port adapter from a universal laptop charger I used years ago. Additional Changes - Changed the original CMOS battery since it was resetting the BIOS settings when disconnected, was able to buy a CR 2032 battery for less than the equivalent of $ 1.00.Change the stock thermal paste with a Cooler Master IC Value V1 Thermal compound which costs free since I only used a friend's tube. Future Upgrades: (by priority and likelyhood)(1) Hoping to use the disc drive's SATA port with a 13 pin SATA to 22 pin SATA adapter for another drive possibly an SSD for faster boot times and increased responsiveness.(2) Still gunning for that Intel Core 2 Duo T9500**(3)**Looking for a PCIe Wifi Card that supports Wifi AC and also has bluetooth**(4)** Adding a PCMCIA USB 3.0 Port**(5)** Going with Wireless peripherals.(6) Hoping to add some RGB**(7)** Turning the original Saturn Controller into a retro USB controller. (highly unlikely) Internals (Yikes) Runs windows 7 professional rather well, video playback is smooth even at 1080p especially considering the integrated GMA X3100 graphics adapter and youtube playback is almost smooth upto 720p when using the H.264 chrome plug-in (1080p video have slight stuttering, I reckon a memory limitation.) Runs GTA : San Andreas at 900p low settings consistently at 35-45 fps, Runs Half-Life 2 at 900p lowest settings at 45-60 fps but frame drops are very pronounced. I didn't do synthetic benchmarks as I didn't think it was relevant for the purpose of the machine. Front view Time well spent, I'm typing this post using this machine. I've transferred all of my school recordings to the drive and have not experienced any problems so far. Although, transfer speeds were pretty dismal but I'll be downloading the recordings from cloud directly to the machine so it will be alleviated. For a machine that basically costs me less than $15 in my equivalent currency, a few errands and bargaining skills, it's a respectable albeit old machine that is surprising capable of basic tasks such as surfing the internet, watching movies and file storage. Internal view with the fan And some of you may ask. Why? Because I wanted to and that's the thing; If you want to do something or learn something then what's your excuse? Don't be afraid to think that you're doing it blindly or doing it wrong because everyone is and everyone is scared of doing something they are unfamiliar with. Eventually, if you take the leap and just do it then you'll soon find it comforting and somewhat enjoyable. Curiosity, Creativity and Courage. I forgot where I read the "3Cs of life" but living by that mantra and incorporating it to all aspects of live generally promote fine results. Hot glue and electrical tape combo. and Yes, it may not be a Ryzen 9 5900X with a Nvidia 3080 or other FICTIONAL HARDWARE, but it works and it's enough. PC Hardware is everywhere. It's understandable to have the necessary hardware for gaming or work but if you're a beginner like me and want to do things just for the sake of doing it then a little bit of lucky and hard work at scavenging and searching for parts is well worth your while. If you have recommendations or want to talk, PM away! This is truly the case of the journey being the best part rather than the destination. I've shared my first "Build" story, I hope you've enjoying it and have a nice day.
Separate Audio in OBS (using FREE programs + Easy Voicemeeter Tutorial)
Want to know How To Separate Audio Sources in OBS studio, like game audio, spotify, alerts, or anything else, and be able to control them for your Twitch and YouTube streams? I will show you how to easily manage all the different audio inputs easily in OBS studio, using free software and give you an easy Voicemeeter Banana Tutorial. I have also created this same walkthrough as a video tutorial, and will post that link below! How how to set up on computer and OBS (windows Only): Download and install Voice Meeter Banana and also download and install all Virtual cables. Restart computer! This is important, you must restart computer! After restart, make sure to open up Voice Meeter Banana and ensure this app opens every time at startup (you can also do this in menu). Next, Open spotify app and play a song, then go into sound settings at the windows search bar and then scroll down and click into advanced sound options. Now set default sounds to V-cable-A and spotify to V-cable-B. then open up discord, go into settings and make output device be V-cable-C. Open Voice Meeter Banana. Make track one input as WDM Cable A, track two as B, track 3 as C, and rename those accordingly. Then on these tracks choose outputs as for each as A1 and A2. Next, on Banana HARDWARE OUT (top right) choose A1 as your PC cases built-in output to speakers (mine is Realtek(R)), then choose A2 as V-cable Input (NO LETTER). Adjust your volumes as desired. I like mine as shown. Then in OBS studio, go into settings, audio and make sure all 6 channels are disabled. Next, create a new Scene called “computer sounds”. In this scene create a new source for AUDIO OUTPUT CAPTURE. When prompted, choose V-cable Input (NO LETTER). Finally, just add that scene into any scene in OBS studio you want these sounds in and bamm!
Night's Ultimate Audio Guide for CS:GO [2020 Edition]
Night's Ultimate Audio Guide for CS:GO [2020 Edition]
Intro Do you have trouble hearing footsteps without cranking up the volume way too high? Is your headset not performing as good as it should? Or do you simply want to get the ultimate audio advantage? Well, I got you. 1. Sound Settings Just because you have trouble with audio in CS:GO or other game doesn't mean you your headset is bad and that you need to buy a new one. The correct settings are even more important than your headphone; you can have the best headphone there is, but if you have bad settings, you will never hear where a sound is coming from. But before we get your settings right, make sure your headphones are plugged in properly/all the way on your pc. If you don't use a USB connector but a 3.5mm connector, try to plug them into the back of your PC for better sound quality. 1.1 CS:GO Settings 1.1.1 Open CS:GO, go to Settings Menu > Audio > Audio Output Configuration If you have a normal pair of headphones or in-ears selectStereo Headphones! Virtual surround sound headphones (5.1, 7.1...) are actually terrible for CS:GO and they will give you a hard time telling where sounds are coming from. Using virtual surround sound with your normal headphones is just as bad. Stick to stereo as this is the definitive way to go. 1.1.2Settings Menu > Audio > Advanced 3D Audio Processing > YES Contrary to popular believe, the "sound engine" in CS:GO is not bad. It is actually incredibly good. The only reason many people perceive it as "bad" is because they are using the wrong settings or incredibly bad gear. The sound engine in CS:GO actually scales very well with your audio gear, meaning that if you use a great pair of headphones and a good audio setup in general, you will feel like no other game comes even close to having as good sound as CS:GO. 1.2 Windows Settings The right CS:GO settings aren't everything, you will also need to select the right settings on your computer. 1.2.1 Open Windows Settings > Sound > Sound Control Panel > Select your headphones with a double-click > Spatial Sound > Turn it off and then click apply Is spatial sound fun for movies and good for speaker systems? Yes. Does it suck for headphones in CS:GO? Yes. 1.3 Secret Technique 😏 If your headphones still suck, there is one secret trick that will make your headphones shine. You will hear every footstep, every reload. Loudness Equalization! This basically puts every sound of your system to the same volume level, meaning footsteps will be as loud as gunshots and vice versa. If you decide to use this, you will need to turn down your volume a lot, because everything will probably become super loud once you enable it! I suggest only using it for competetive CS:GO and turning it back off when you listen to music, watch YouTube etc. However, you should still only use it as a "desperate measure" since it will affect your ability to judge the distance where sounds are coming from more or less, depending on what headphones you use. How do I enable it? It depends on your soundcodec that is installed on your motherboard. Here are three ways of turning it on, one will probably work for you: A.Windows Settings > Sound > Sound Control Panel > Your Headphones > Enhancements > Loudness Equalization > Yes B. Type "Realtek" into your windows searchbar > open Realtek Audio Console > Look for your correct audio output device > Tick the box at "Loudness Equalization" somewhere in the settings C. Check which sound codec / software your PC uses, open the programm and see where you can enable loudness equalization. Google might help. No Loudness EQ setting available? Download a free loudness equalizer. For more information about Loudness Equalization, watch 3kliksphilip's video on it. 2. Audio Gear Buying Guide Is your audio still not as good as want it to be? Do you want a sleek new pair of headphones for christmas? Do you have the big bucks and want the best competetive audio ever? Continue reading! bUt NiGhT wHy CaNt I jUsT bUy A hEaDsEt tHe PrO pLaYeRs uSe? You could. However, most pro players do not use the headsets they use because they are particularly good, they use them because their sponsor pays them so much money for using them that they would be stupid refuse. And do you really believe a "gaming brand" knows more about audio then a brand that only focuses on audio? 2.1 What is best for me? Are you alone, playing in a quiet environment and do not need good sound isolation? If your answer is YES, then open-back headphones are for you. They bring a huge soundstage and great imaging (= 3D audio locating) to the table and are better for competetive gaming without a doubt. The only downside is that due to the open-back nature, your sound leaks out of the headphones and others can hear it and outside sound leaks into the headphones, meaning you can hear others / your loud pc / construction workers etc.. sometimes. If your answer is NO, then look for a pair of closed-back headphones to isolate you from any distracting noise. 2.2 Open-Back Headphones In this list, I have compiled the most common audiophile-picks for competetive gaming. I have tested or own most of these myself. But just because a headphone is not on this list doesn't mean it is bad or unuseable for CS:GO.
Wireless planar-magnetic headset by Audeze. Compatible with either X-Box or Playstation. Likely the best wireless gaming headset.
Wireless, good soundstage and good imaging.
Expensive
Yes
No
3. FAQ Q. Can I use In-Ears for CS:GO? A. Absolutely! In-Ears are known for great imaging, so you will easily be able to tell out of which direction a sound is coming from. However, in-ears are often lacking soundstage, so you will have trouble to tell how far away a sound is. Q. Why do pros use in-ears and wear over-ears over them during lan-tournaments? A. They use in-ears for sound and the over-ears are "aviation headsets" that only cancel the sound coming from the fans and casters in the arena. Q. Should I try out loudness-equalization? A. Whether you are a casual or a pro player, absolutely try it. Chances are you will love it for CS:GO. If you have a really great pair of headphones or a great audio setup in general you should still try it, but chances are you will lose out on soundstage and imaging. Basically, it only makes sense to use loudness equalization if your headphones do not pick up all the sound naturally at a normal volume level. So you force them to do so. If they already pick every footstep and every reload up, then there is no point in enabling loudness equalization as it will make 3d locating worse and make ambient noise much more noticeable. Q. Is it really worth spending ~800$/€ for something like the DT 1990 Pro +DAC/AMP just for CS:GO? A. If you have a lot of money to spend, live in a quiet place and don't talk to your teammates all the time it will absolutely stunning. But generally speaking, you are getting "the last 10%" of sound performance in CS:GO for ~6 times the price. That's a terribly money-value-ratio. But if you are a wealthy perfectionist you should look into it. Q. How do I know that your guide is legit the best guide? A. This isn't a guide that I have just written over the weekend. Throughout the last five years I have tested countless headphones and other audio gear for CS:GO specifically. I also work for e-sport clubs and pro teams and advise them. Q. I don't know which headphones to buy, what do I do? A. You go to headphoneadvice and make a nice and detailed post asking for help. Q. What if I just turn the volume up really really high to hear everything? A. Your ears won't thank you and you will permanently damage your hearing faster than you'd think. You can use this guide or a decibel meter to check your volume level. Q. What is important for a good competetive headphone? A. The most important aspects are good imaging (directional sound) and a big soundstage. You also don't want too much bass since bass will drown out footsteps and other audio cues and your ears are not good at telling where bass is coming from. Q. Why do surround sound and virtual surround sound suck for CS:GO? A. Virtual and real surround sound are bad for positional audio in headphones and are generally just looked down upon as a marketing gimmick. Stereo represents the true way our ears work and perceive sound naturally the best while using headphones. Our brains will do the 3D audio locating work together with the headphone's sounds. If you have a speaker system, surround sound will work and it will be great, just not with headphones. Q. The headphones I want to buy have no microphone, what do I do? A. Purchase or use a seperate microphone. This could be a USB or XLR microphone you simply put on your table or a a microphone that gets attached to your headphones like AntLion Audio ModMics. For some headphones (not the ones listed here) you can also use a V moda Boom Pro mic cable. Q. Which EQ settings do you use? A. I don't use an equalizer but you can use one. There are no EQ settings that work for every headphone no matter what those YouTube guides tell you. What EQ settings you want to use depends on what headphones you are wearing and what you want to get out of your sound. Generally speaking, it can be helpful for CS to turn down the bass by lowering the 20 to 250Hz values. Just experiment with it if you feel like it and tune it to your liking and needs, seriously! If you do not have an equalizer or an equalizer software on your computer and you really want to try one, I suggest downloading Equalizer APO! Also, do not just boost 4k and 8k because your favourite youtuber told you so. Chances are, it will make your headphone sound very sharp and sibilant and it will exhaust your ears and you won't hear footsteps better at all because they are not just composed out of 4k and 8k frequencies. Q. What about snd_ console settings in CS:GO? A. They were relevant years ago but CS:GO now gives you pretty much the best audio console settings possible by default. I do not suggest changing them. Q: What audio format should I use? A. 16 or 24 Bit and 44.1kHz or 48kHz. CS:GO is capped at 16bit/44.1kHz. I'll spare the details on this one but you can google it if you want to learn something about how audio works. Q. Is this guide sponsored by a brand? A. No. I am also not using any affiliate links. Q. When will the CS:GO update come out? A. Yes. Please post your questions here and do not send them via PM so I can answer them here for everyone to see. I will edit answered questions to the FAQ, so read it before asking. Thank you for reading, stay safe.
Greetings and good day! As a 22 year old graduating nursing student, I lacked the requisite knowledge, the necessary budget and the required amount of time to learn how to build and set up my own PC. However, despite the horrors and adversity the pandemic has given to all of us worldwide; A positive thing about being locked down and isolated is the enormous amount of spare time we can use to learn and improve on things we are passionate about. For the past few months, I've been deep into this rabbit hole stemming from curiosity; It started with LTT Build Guides then to reading various forums on information. Still I was bottlenecked, The time constraints and information deficit was alleviated but the budget was no where to be found but my tinkering spirit needed to be indulged. Desperate, especially since I needed another PC separate from the laptop I currently use for school works which is almost full due to saved recordings of class proceedings. I searched through the basement of my grandmother's ancestral home and found the Acer Aspire 4315 laptop she bought in the mid to late 2000s and a Sega Victor V-Saturn Console [And before you flame me out because this is PCMR, read ahead as it may get better, and for those unfamiliar; the Sega Victor V-Saturn is a JVC branded variant of the Sega Saturn] which was given to me by my uncle. Initial boot up of the laptop, which due to the lack of an LCD panel and a very short VGA Cable, had to be ziptied to the back of a monitor. Upon initial assessment, the laptop only had the bottom half of the shell; thankfully, the motherboard, I/O and plastic shell (Although full of cracks) was still intact although it lacked SODIMM Memory, a storage drive, a battery, a monitor, a speaker, Mini PCIe Wifi Card and had a broken audio I/O port and a broken keyboard. I was able to procure the various parts needed to make it boot from my inventory of harvested parts from previous laptops I've owned such as the 512 mb of DDR2 SODIMM Memory, a 256 gb Western Digital 5400 2.5" HDD and a USB Wifi Card.The Saturn was in much better shape. When I took both home and booted them up it was surprising seeing the Laptop successfully boot (A fact exemplified by the photo above, which I took and sent directly to my brother in surprise) while the Saturn was beyond the grave and dead AF. To put context into both these machines; On November 2013, our province was devastated by the Super Typhoon Haiyan or Typhoon Yolanda as we called it. Thankfully for us, no one from our family was hurt or lost during the event but most of our material things including hardware were presumed to be damage to the point of no repair or dead included in those hardware were these two machines. It was incredibly surprising to see the Acer Laptop survive the tragedy and time being on the shelf. Upon cleaning up the fans and changing the thermal paste which had been there for more than a decade, I noticed that it was a Socket P processor which was up-gradable. Mulling over it the next days, I finally decided to do something about the casing, since it was really irritating seeing it behind the monitor. Initially, I wanted to transplant the motherboard into a broken sub woofer's wooden box and integrate a bluetooth speaker into it but seeing as how my tools only included a pair of screw drivers, box cutters, a hack saw, electrical tape and a hot glue, it was not meant to be. Ultimately, since the motherboard's PCB and the dimensions of the Saturn were all too similar, I just had to pull the trigger.Once I removed the electrical and hardware components of the Saturn and gave it to a local electronics recycler, removed the plastic standoffs for the internals; giving me a flat surface to work and painted it (Further reading..) it was ready for work. Unfortunately, I was unable to take photos of the build process because at the time I considered it insignificant and had a success rate of 0%. The laptop casing was sawed in half and literally placed on top of the Saturn's Shell. Casing - since the PCB was slightly larger due to the protruding fans than the Saturn's Shell. I cut a hole in the rear left side of the Saturn; while it already had an access door, had to be expanded due to the size of the PCB. Another opening had to be cut for the video output. Another concern to consider was mounting the motherboard into the casing, initially, I had planned on super gluing mother board standoffs in order to slightly elevate the motherboard but was unable to procure the necessary standoffs locally. So, in defiance of proper PC building, I literally sawed off the plastic shell of the laptop to the point in which it fit into the Saturn's shell and used the plastic standoffs in the laptop's shell to mount the PCB. Holding both casings were a pair of zip ties. The underside of the Saturn, showing the two zip-ties which joined the Saturn's casing and the laptop's sawed off casing. Paint- - A cousin of mine wanted to try hydro-dipping and the top portion of the shell was a viable test candidate. And you might say I violated the art of this machine and it may have looked perfect physical but its paint was yellow as a jaundice. It needed to go and frankly, good riddance. Still kept the bottom portion though in order to retain some of the Saturn's design The top portion of the shell. Cooling -The laptop's processor heat sink and fan still worked but to increase the lifespan of the system I wanted to add a secondary fan but since there are no fan headers, I salvaged an old PC 3 pin fan and wired up the 5V and ground wires to a USB 2.0 Male, cut a hole on the disc tray portion of the casing and mounted it blowing towards the mother board.. It works while it may be slower than if powered by a 12V source, it's still very effective as it keeps the processor at 23-25 degrees Celsius at idle and 40-50 degrees Celsius at a full load. I'm still hoping to source a fan filter. Inputs and Outputs - The laptop has 3 USB 2.0 ports and No USB 3.0 Ports, which is not enough considering I had to insert a USB Mouse, USB keyboard, 5V USB Fan and USB Audio Port. With this in mind, I bought a cheap USB 2.0 Hub for the equivalent of $ 3.34 at a local mall and a sourced a USB Audio Port online for the equivalent of $ 3.95 with shipping. Granted they were cheap, made of plastic and its quality was alright at best, I was still satisfied with their performance especially the USB 2.0 Hub. Hoping to find a PCMCIA USB 3.0 Card although drivers might be my enemy when I pursue that route. Audio was fine, could be better but couldn't complain; better something than nothing at all. Rear view, exposing the VGA Port and Fan exhaust cut out. Connectivity - At first, I had a TP-Link USB Wifi Card but upon digging my storage further, I was able to find a Wireless-N Mini PCIe Wifi Card but noted the lack of antennas. I was able to salvage antennas from a broken router left behind by our previous ISP (It has been 4 years since and they still haven't taken back the router) luckily, antennas were an IPEX wire which was the ones that connected to the wifi card.Since the card could not be physically screwed into place due to its diminutive size; I took a jank solution as you can see below. mini PCIe Wifi Card mounting mechanism (and yes, further cleaning is needed on those fans) - USB Ports are screwed into the other as space is limited. CPU - since it was a Socket P processor (it was a Celeron 540; single core). The laptop sports a GL960 Chipset which supports upto a 533mhz FSB but upon reading some forums, I've learned that it may be able to support C2Ds with a bus speed of upto 800mhz. Seeing as the Core 2 Duo T9500 but seeing as it was close to $50.00 with shipping; I was bottlenecked yet again and settled with the Core 2 Duo T8100 which I bought online for the equivalent of $ 7.78 as of posting including shipping. Still a very competent upgrade selection especially for the price. Storage - One of my cousins offered to give me their 1TB External HDD if I could recover their files such as vacation images and work files; turns out it was a physical connection damage and was easily able to recover the files. Of course, I offered to give back the 1 TB Drive but they insisted I use it since they already moved on the another external drive. Thanks. Immediately cloned my installation of Windows 7 from the 256 GB into the 1 TB 2.5" SATA Drive in the external HDD. RAM - While I was able to procure another 512gb of memory, it was not enough. Luckily, another uncle of mine (Yes, we have plenty of relatives) had a broken HP Laptop that had 2 sticks of 1GB DDR2 SODIMM. Thanks again! Now, I'm able to run dual channel and benefit from the increase in memory bandwidth. Power - Since it had no battery and the battery was unreasonably expensive, I settled on using an old laptop power brick which needed to be adapted to fit the laptop's barrel port. Luckily, I was able to use a port adapter from a universal laptop charger I used years ago. Additional Changes - Changed the original CMOS battery since it was resetting the BIOS settings when disconnected, was able to buy a CR 2032 battery for less than the equivalent of $ 1.00.Change the stock thermal paste with a Cooler Master IC Value V1 Thermal compound which costs free since I only used a friend's tube. Future Upgrades:
Hoping to use the disc drive's SATA port with a 13 pin to 22 pin SATA adapter for use with another drive; possibly a 2.5" SATA SSD for faster boot times and increased responsiveness.
Still gunning for that Intel Core 2 Duo T9500 though
Still looking fro a PCIe Wifi Card that supports AC Wifi and also has bluetooth functionality.
Adding a PCMCIA USB 3.0 Port
Changing peripherals to wireless peripherals.
Hoping to add some RGB, however, should it be out of my budget then maybe christmas lights or LED lights.
Convert the original Saturn controller to a USB one for retro gaming (highly unlikely)
Internals (Yikes) Runs windows 7 professional rather well, video playback is smooth even at 1080p especially considering the integrated GMA X3100 graphics adapter and youtube playback is almost smooth upto 720p when using the H.264 chrome plug-in (1080p video have slight stuttering, I reckon a memory limitation.) Runs GTA : San Andreas at 900p low settings consistently at 35-45 fps, Runs Half-Life 2 at 900p lowest settings at 45-60 fps but frame drops are very pronounced. I didn't do synthetic benchmarks as I didn't think it was relevant for the purpose of the machine. Front view Time well spent, I'm typing this post using this machine. I've transferred all of my school recordings to the drive and have not experienced any problems so far. Although, transfer speeds were pretty dismal but I'll be downloading the recordings from cloud directly to the machine so it will be alleviated. For a machine that basically costs me less than $15 in my equivalent currency, a few errands and bargaining skills, it's a respectable albeit old machine that is surprising capable of basic tasks such as surfing the internet, watching movies and file storage. Internal view with the fan And some of you may ask. Why? Because I wanted to and that's the thing; If you want to do something or learn something then what's your excuse? Don't be afraid to think that you're doing it blindly or doing it wrong because everyone is and everyone is scared of doing something they are unfamiliar with. Eventually, if you take the leap and just do it then you'll soon find it comforting and somewhat enjoyable. Curiosity, Creativity and Courage. I forgot where I read the "3Cs of life" but living by that mantra and incorporating it to all aspects of live generally promote fine results. Hot glue and electrical tape combo. and Yes, it may not be a Ryzen 9 5900X with a Nvidia 3080 or other FICTIONAL HARDWARE, but it works and it's enough. PC Hardware is everywhere. It's understandable to have the necessary hardware for gaming or work but if you're a beginner like me and want to do things just for the sake of doing it then a little bit of lucky and hard work at scavenging and searching for parts is well worth your while. If you have recommendations or want to talk, PM away! This is truly the case of the journey being the best part rather than the destination. I've shared my first "Build" story, I hope you've enjoying it and have a nice day.
Compiled list of user reported issues with the latest Adrenalin driver.
As a community I think we need to create our own list of issues, since the official lists from AMD and Nvidia mostly contain a few. Now, please remember that not all of these are actual driver issues, but are instead caused by other reasons.
It could be inadequate cooling and components getting cooked during sustained loads. An old Windows installation getting re-used, with software running in the background that's causing stuttering or high DPC latency.
Many users don't select the optional clean driver installation when installing new drivers, but this can lead to problems down the road.
Next we have hardware problems. Many have reported issues with daisy-chained power cables. Upgrading a PSU has helped many. Low quality power strips have been identified as instability culprits etc.
A lot of users haven't stability tested their system with OCCT, TestMem5 or similar for prolonged periods of time. If your system isn't stable when pushed a bit, then that can also result in issues during prolonged hours of gaming. Inadequate cooling can exacerbate the problems. Some PC-cases are more like heat-boxes.
A final note: Remember that graphic cards manufacturers have different RMA rates for the same chip. Your card might be clocked too high from the factory, have severe inadequate cooling (like the Asus Strix 5700 XT), lack good VRM or VRM cooling. With that in mind, if we can make sure that such issues don't make it to the list, then the driver team can focus on actual driver problems.
Number
Issue
Link
1
GTA V: overall performance is way worse, I lost about half of my fps (~120 -> ~50 , single player). In my first few attempts to access the graphics settings the game would crash or fall to 7 fps. And all that without even turning on MSAA. I never had such performance problems in GTA before.
Eevee render and wireframe view in Blender is still broken. Enabling high quality normals in Eevee render settings fixes the issue, which happened with both 20.11.2 and latest drivers.
HDMI Audio is broken again/still. The lower the framerate, the more often you get audio drops. had to install the default hdmi audio driver to fix that (5700 XT)
OBS reporting this error [AMF] Unable to set converter transfer characteristic, error AMF_NOT_FOUND (code 11). The last time the error wasn't present was with the 20.9.1 drivers.
The fans for my Asus TUF Gaming OC RX 6800, where as soon as the temperature hits 52°C, they jump to 70% Speed, which is really loud. Downgrading back to 20.12.1 solves the problem
With this driver I get black screens for a few seconds when pausing and resuming youtube videos in fullscreen. And when going fullscreen and unfullscreen on youtube (6800 XT)
The monitor can't be turned on by moving the mouse or pressing a key, when the monitor goes to sleep. One has to manually turn the monitor off and on, in order for the graphics card to receive a signal. The issue has been observed with Dell U2715H and LG 22MN430H-B, (RX 6800).
Zero RPM is disabled under advanced fan control, if one makes a custom fan curve. Zero RPM becomes grey'd out, and the fans run at their lowest setting on the curve when it's idle. The workaround is to save the profile, then go in to the profile file and edit entry 18 and set the flag to True, and remove the entire false sub line entry. Then reload the profile. Zero RPM re-enabled with a custom fan curve
The issue with maxed out VRAM clock speed for high refresh rate monitors is still present on 5700 XT and 5700. Some users with single 60 Hz and single 75 Hz 1080p monitors experience it as well. Clock speeds worked on older driver releases (e.g. 20.11.1)
Users have to unplug VR headsets before doing a driver update, or the driver update crashes. Install wizards starts, loads for a bit and then PC restarts suddenly. After boot the PC can't used anymore, (the desktop is complexly frozen and can't even open task manager). Safe mode has to be used to completely uninstall the drivers. (Vega 56, Oculus Rift CV1, Windows 20H2). It seems to have started with the 20.11.2 driver
Black screens are not fixed for all Samsung monitors. I still get a black screen on the CRG9. Once you wake the system from sleep you see the desktop for about 5 seconds and then the screen goes black. 6900X
Latency issues on 5700 XT (no issues on 20.11.1 drivers). I use driver 20.11.1 and everything is fine on my 5700XT. But every driver after that driver caused stuttering in games that worked fine before. After some searching I downloaded latencymon and found out that the drivers after 20.11.1 cause latency spikes which cause stuttering, with older drivers no problem and believe me I tried all of them from 20.4.1 until the latest DDU and all.
Ever since 20.11.2+ (Once they renamed Freesync to Freesync Premium), freesync + vsync causes games to stutter alot. "If I disable freesync games are smooth again. Me and a friend also a Vega64 user is having the same problem and we need to roll back to 20.11.1 on each new driver release because we are stubborn to test.
FPS/lag issue with Football Manager 21. After the last update there was some kind of 'lag' in the frame rates when playing matches. When you alt-tabbed to the desktop and then back to the game, the frame rate was ok for like 5-10 seconds, but then it was 'lagging' again. Frames are only ok when in window-mode.
Connecting a HP Reverb G2 headset to a 6900XT (Powercolor Red Devil) causes BSOD MEMORY_MANAGEMENT. This was also the case for drivers: 20.12.1, 20.12.2 and now 21.1.1
Graphical bug on nearly all games where shadows, lights and reflections are pixelated or grainy (like a sort of visual noise), and anything involving light shows up as low-res. Running on a Saphhire 5700XT, but I had this problem on my old XFX RX570 as well.
ReLive doesn't record. Possible fix: change the recording folder on Windows. Second possible fix: Go to the recording settings and change the audio channels from auto to stereo (or whatever else you might have). Third possible fix: Go to the Display Options then override and turn off HDCP support.
New UEFI BIOS updates for ASUS AMD motherboards W03 - B450, X470, TRX40 - 54 Boards - Includes AGESA V2 PI 1.2.0.0 for applicable boards and updates to Resizeable Bar Support for NVIDIA cards
New UEFI BIOS updates
For ASUS AMD motherboards – W03 ( please look at prior posts for recent updates to other boards/chipsets )
AMD – B450, X470, TRX40 - Boards are listed at bottom FAQ and updates notes for consideration. *For applicable boards, UEFI includes the Resizable Bar support for NVIDIA graphics cards as well as AGESA V2 PI 1.2.0.0 GPU/driver support req’d
AEGSA Notes -
V1.1.9.0 Win10 s0i3 support Stability tuning for 1800-2000MHz FCLK (OC) Support for passive X570 motherboards General stability improvements V1.2.0.0 RAID driver update Support for PCIe ReBAR (GPU/driver support req’d) Stability updates Fix for 5600X/5800X telemetry in Ryzen Master (requires RM 2.6.1.X; also available in Feb.) UEFI BIOS update list noted below – A total of 120 boards with a UEFI BIOS update. I have revised the title and moving forward will note the chipsets included in the title post for clarity - For reference, the W03 is in relation to the workweek. Why is my motherboard not listed? If you are looking for your motherboard/model I would suggest going to https://www.asus.com/us/support/ and checking if it has been updated recently. I post updates on a weekly basis. Many times UEFI’s are releases in waves, this can mean it can take an entire series weeks or months to see the “same” update if it includes items like CPU firmware. Furthermore, keep in mind that not all updates are for all models. Due to inherent design differences as well as specification and feature variation an update may only be applicable to a specific model. How can I be notified about releases? If you want to be kept in the loop, you can also follow me for notifications when updates are released/posted. I am also the admin for our PCDIY Facebook Group where I post updates and other ASUS centric product news https://www.facebook.com/groups/ASUSPCDIY How long after a board is produced will UEFI updates be released? Keep in mind that generally after a year and a half boards tend to reach a certain maturity level and see fewer updates. If you feel you have an issue that is dependent on a UEFI release please submit a support ticket. In some cases some boards can see updates for more than 24 months+ I want to update but am not sure how to update the UEFI "BIOS"? If you want guidance on how to flash/update your UEFI BIOS please watch the video linked below. It will guide you through the flashing process as well as provide insight into important items to keep in mind when flashing/updating the UEFI BIOS. How to Flash / Update your UEFI BIOS on ASUS Motherboards - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scK8AP8ZACc Should I update the UEFI is my system is stable and running without issue? If your system is running without issue, especially if overclocked in any way ( including DRAM ) it is recommended you stay on the build/release you are on. Changes to underlying auto rules and other operating parameters can change the OC experience and require you to retune a previously stable OC value. This does not mean the UEFI is not a functioning/reliable release but that changes in the underlying code base need to be accounted for when tuning a system. As many of these values are low level or specific operating parameters that can affect performance tuning/overclocking it is best to retune from full UEFI defaults after you have re run stability test at UEFI defaults. Users who update from stock to stock settings will generally experience the smoothest transition experience. Will a UEFI update improve my overclocking experience? A UEFI update can improve multiple aspects of the OC experience from extending frequencies, improving stability as well as add new ways to overclock. It is important to note that there are inherent challenges and realities in overclocking including silicon variance and this cannot be overcome purely from a UEFI update. Will a UEFI update change my operating experience? Power consumption, heat, etc? With microcode updates and changes to underlying performance tuning auto rules there can be improvements to boosting behaviors, changes to auto rules to voltages, or many other parameters that can influence and affect temperature, performance scores, and power consumption. It is important to always run like to like default values for direct comparison. This means verification of the end operating experience should be first verified with default operating values ( F5 ) and ideally a fresh installation of chipset drivers, updated build of Windows, and optimized Windows power profile. What if the UEFI BIOS listed is a BETA? Should I update? BETA UEFI releases are for enthusiasts who want access to the latest features, functions, and microcode enhancements, and overall UEFI improvements. As they are not officially supported they are not recommended for day to day / long term use. Users who plan to use their system in this capacity and want to ensure the best interoperability/compatibility and stability, as well as performance, should wait for a formal release.
Not every user should update/flash their UEFI BIOS. I stress this again, if you are running without issue(s) you are advised to stay on the release you are running.
Notes to consider -* When flashing please perform the update process at full UEFI defaults. Do NOT flash with an overclocked system/profile.
I recommend updating the UEFI BIOS on your motherboard for new PC builds. This helps to ensure the best interoperability, compatibility, and performance. If you are building a PC and have not yet installed the OS, I would recommend you update the UEFI.
Keep in mind flashing/updating the UEFI will reset all defined parameters/settings and operating profiles. You will not be able to restore defined values by using a UEFI Profile as profiles are not interoperable between builds. It is advised you note or screenshot (F12) your values prior to flashing if they are complex. Upon completing a flash I would recommend you load UEFI defaults after the fact and complete a full reboot and shutdown prior to reloading or entering any customized UEFI values.
When you update the UEFI and reload UEFI defaults depending on your originally defined BOOT values you may need to adjust CSM settings either enabling or disabling CSM. If you experience BOOT related issues after an update please adjust the CSM accordingly.
Be advised that in some cases a rollback to a prior UEFI is not possible. This generally is the case when there is an update that includes CPU microcode ( such as an AMD AEGSA or Intel ME ). This means you may not be able to “flashback” to a prior release.
While not always necessary some UEFI updates may require a clearing of the CMOS to reset the UEFI and ensure normal functionality. This means after you flash you may need to CLR the CMOS to have the system POST. You can either clear the CMOS via the CLR CMOS button if your motherboard supports it or by removing the onboard CMOS battery for at least a few minutes. You can also attempt to locate the CLR CMOS jumper on the motherboard and short the pins to clear the CMOS.
I also recommend you backup your system prior to any flash/update and always advise flash/update become executed from a fresh loading (F5) of UEFI defaults. The board model/name is on the right-hand side and the version number is on the left-hand side. To download the UEFI BIOS please go to https://www.asus.com/support/ AMD – 1.B450M-D3V2801 2.B450M-DRAGON2801 3.PRIME B450M-A2801 4.PRIME B450M-A/CSM2801 5.PRIME B450M-A II2801 6.PRIME B450M-A II/CSM2801 7.PRIME B450M-K2801 8.PRIME B450M-K II2801 9.TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING2801 10.TUF B450M-PRO GAMING2801 11.PRIME X470-PRO5830 12.ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING5830 13.PRIME B450-PLUS2801 14.PRIME B450M-GAMING II2801 15.PRIME B450M-GAMING/BR2801 16.PRIME B450-PLUS2801 17.TUF B450-PLUS GAMING2801 18.TUF B450-PRO GAMING2801 19.TUF X470-PLUS GAMING5830 20.ROG CROSSHAIR VII HERO4202 21.ROG CROSSHAIR VII HERO(WI-FI)4202 22.ROG STRIX X470-I GAMING4202 23.ROG STRIX B450-E GAMING4202 24.ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING4202 25.ROG STRIX B450-I GAMING4202 26.ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING II4202 27.TUF GAMING B450M-PRO S2803 28.TUF GAMING B450M-PRO II2803 29.TUF GAMING B450M-PLUS II2803 30.B450M-D3V2803 31.B450M-DRAGON2803 32.PRIME B450M-A2803 33.PRIME B450M-A/CSM2803 34.PRIME B450M-A II2803 35.PRIME B450M-A II/CSM2803 36.PRIME B450M-K2803 37.PRIME B450M-K II2803 38.TUF B450M-PLUS GAMING2803 39.TUF B450M-PRO GAMING2803 40.PRIME X470-PRO5833 41.ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING5833 42.PRIME B450M-GAMING/BR2803 43.PRIME B450-PLUS2803 44.TUF GAMING B450-PLUS II2803 45.TUF B450-PLUS GAMING2803 46.TUF B450-PRO GAMING2803 47.TUF X470-PLUS GAMING5833 48.PRIME B450M-GAMING II2803 49.ROG ZENITH II EXTREME1402 50.PRIME TRX40-PRO1402 51.ROG STRIX TRX40-E GAMING1402 52.ROG ZENITH II EXTREME ALPHA1402 53.ROG STRIX TRX40-XE GAMING1402 54.PRIME TRX40-PRO S1402
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